You have an idea of what the townships are like before you go there. Your idea is altered when you drive through and begin working at a service site. Your idea becomes a whole new beast when you spend a day in the environment these people live in, when you explore their economy and their culture, when you are welcomed into their homes and shown a small portion of how they live.
Today Bradley, a tour guide/teacher/political activist who had given our city tour and had shown us a small piece of the townships last week, took us into the heart of the townships. Our first stop was a Spaza shop that produce a simple bread in a traditional style of African baking (a Spaza shop is a small shop in what is essentially a shipping container that the government subsidizes for small businesses). Our second stop was unexpectedly impressive. We were taken to a soup kitchen run by the iThembe Women’s Group. The woman running the show was quite modest so when Bradely exposed her fascinating past, we were taken aback at being so close to history. This woman, “Mama” Regina Mngadi, was a political activist alongside Mandela. She was imprisoned with the same people and “ran in the same circles”. She has worked as a Christian social services worker for over 12 years in addition to this and retired to provide a service for the people of New Brighton. She serves the children lunch every day out of her own garden and the little funds she and the iThembe Women’s group can come by. She says with a warm smile and a low chuckle “I just do what I love, which is to help people.” As Bradely says, these people are rare. I am blessed to have been that close to one of them and to be invited to work with her and the children she helps in the future.
Following such a historical moment, we moved on to the art of the townships. We visited a pottery studio of a woman who keeps her talents in the townships so that it is authentic as well as to avoid the exploitation of tourism. Her pottery provided an insight into the creativity and innovation of the people. The gorgeous art was also purchased as gifts to bring home, gifts that are truly and uniquely from South Africa.
The rest of the afternoon was filled with small stops to point out the houses of political activists and memorials to atrocities of Apartheid. Between these stops we visited a tavern in New Brighton that is frequented by political activists within the townships. A surprising phenomenon occurred here. I almost expected it to be tense, even unwelcome in a sense that 9 white people with one colored man would enter into the place they socialize. Instead we received nods, waves, and smiles, with only a few questioning looks. Bradley pointed out that 5 years ago that would not have been the case. The racial lines are blurring and it is acceptable to enter into each other’s domains when entering with a polite open attitude and a smile for everyone. It was unexpected to learn so much from having a beer in a tavern. It was unexpected that I would have a better understanding of what still stands in the way of the peaceful and comfortable mingling of races in South Africa. So much of it is still the pain of Apartheid and the pain the government still causes the people of South Africa. I will not diminish that fact. It seems in part though that in social situations, the lines can be crossed if only you have an open heart and mind.
Our last stop of the day was to a vegetable market on the side of the street where a bag of potatoes was 7 rand (one dollar) and two peppers for 4 rand (75 cents). Here the smiles and laughs continued, with still a few skeptical eyes as these markets are not frequented by whites (according to Bradely). Some seemed to look at us like it was perfectly normal, others looking at us almost as if they were pleasantly surprised and glad that we did not find it uncomfortable to be there.
To be perfectly frank I am honored to have experienced a day in the life of the people of New Brighton. I feel that with this new perspective on how the township operates and what people do for a living, for entertainment, and for survival, I will be better able to serve people. I will know the heritage of the children at the Haven, at least to a small extent. Today has sparked in me a desire to learn so much more about the history not written down, about the culture one cannot experience unless guided through it in the place it grows.
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