The End of the Adventures in South Africa

The last week afforded little time for reflection and the trip home boasted lots of chickflicks and naps. So as I landed in New York, my brain began to catch up with me and I jotted down a few of my rambling thoughts.

The plane has begun its descent and my heart is both jumping with joy and anticipation and sinking at the finality of it all. I’ve left South Africa. I’ve left the place that became a catalyst for growth, that hosted self-realization and really inspired it. I look out the window and see the shores of the East Coast and realize that I’m in the US again. I’m not going to land hear at least 3 languages and I most likely won’t hear Xhosa for quite some time. While there’s something comforting in being back in one’s usual environment and culture, I can’t say I look forward to the homogeneity. The comfort of my friends and family and the normalcy afforded by being with them is something I’ve been missing the entire time I’ve been gone. I hope that I am able to take the lessons I have learned and hold them close even when I’m not in the country that gave birth to those new ideas. I can’t wait to be back in the presence of those I love and to share my experiences with them.

             By the time I landed in Des Moines, I was simply bouncing in my seat. I saw Zach on the runway as we taxied up to the hanger. I smiled at the pink flowers in this hand and the tie he was wearing.  Of course my dad took forever talking to the pilot and opening the door and I almost knocked him over as I ran down the stairs behind him to get to Zach. Once I landed in Zach’s hug I’m not sure I left until we had to get in the car. Actually I’m pretty sure I still haven’t stopped hugging him. Or talking his ear off for that matter. They say home is where the hear is and spending the last few days with Zach, my friends, and my horses had proved that to be true. I’m so very grateful for my time in South Africa but I’m equally grateful that I’m home with the people I love.

Last Day at the House of Resurrection AIDS Haven

            I knew our last day at House would be difficult but I suppose I didn’t realize just how difficult it would be. Most of us rode a rollercoaster of emotions all day. We simply played with the kids as we normally do for the first part of the day. Knowing we wouldn’t play it with the kids again, “Little Sunny Girl” became a poignant song. Cede actually sang throughout and when he finally got picked for sunny girl, all the children cheered for him. After we’d played the usual games, we decided to read the story for them the first time. An uncommon hush fell over them as they heard their names being read in a real storybook. I was pretty proud of myself that I didn’t cry while reading it aloud but then I looked at the others, kids in their laps, choking up a little and as usual, a few tears sprung up. They were quickly wiped away while the kids ate their PB&J and we began to paint. They got it all over themselves and even decided to explore the new taste of paint. Our final art project was a large poster with everyone’s hand painted on. We painted the kids hands and pressed them onto the paper and repeated the process with ourselves. We labeled every handprint and hung it up in the playschool. The process was completely full of giggles and children running around with paint all over, a dangerous prospect for all clothing involved…and faces. After cleaning off the majority of the paint, we again sat them down for the story. This time, they shrieked at each mention of a name, uncontrollably laughing. They did finally listen to the story but most of them were sniggering the whole time, pretending they were paying full attention. The giggles resurfaced and grew even louder when we gave them all a popsicle, a treat they wondered at and of course got all over. In case they weren’t hyper enough after painting and popsicles, we gave them each a sillyband and they all got so excited to have bracelets that matched ours. When they got their lunch, they all held up their hands yelling ‘Mama look! Look!’ to the housemothers who gave them lunch.

            Unfortunately, with each activity we did, the time to leave got closer and closer. We began to say our goodbyes, starting with the staff. Sheila cried and Renee clouded up a little. Renee took a picture of all seven of us on the front steps with the hand painting and a housemother took a picture of us with all the kids, the painting held up behind us all. As we began to hug all the kids, their faces showed a little recognition. We’d explained it to Lisa (the smartest girl who should definitely be in Kindergarten) and she had said, “How many of you are there? [pause while she counted us.] Well, I will miss all seven of you!” So she, Mkhitha, and possibly Kuhle seemed to understand that we wouldn’t be coming back. The rest just seemed to understand that something serious was going on, that there was a reason to be a little sad since we were all trying so hard not to cry. They gave us all the biggest hugs they had, repeatedly. Cede broke my heart as he alternately hugged me tightly and sat back and gave me big smiles. I tried to explain it to him and at one point his response to the fact that I wouldn’t be back was a very straight face, a shake of the head, a big hug, and a smile (in that order). As we left the playschool, my eyes filled with tears, as I knew they would. We walked down the sidewalk with slow and heavy steps, sitting down on the grass to wait for Shadly. We’ve given these children love and attention for four months. We’ve seen them grow a little and get a little happier and more comfortable with each day. Nonetheless, the heart breaks a little leaving them.

The Best Day Ever at the Haven

             Smiles, giggles, hugs, and boerwors were aplenty today at House. Our group had set out to provide the kids at house with a “Fun Day” and that we did. The whole crew was there including all the older kids, all the staff, and the majority of our CSB/SJU group. The jumping castle man set up an extra jumping castle for free and the kids had an absolute blast. Most of the kids were bedecked with face paint by noon. The boys wore Spiderman and batman paint quite proudly and the girls smiled with flowers and rainbows (and of course there were the boys with rainbows and the girls with cars). Cede was a rollercoaster himself today. One minute he was forlornly clinging to me with his head on my shoulder and the next he was a ball of energy bouncing up and down and around on the jumping castle and twirling me in circles. Many of the other kids from the playschool seemed overwhelmed by all the new people, the loud music, and the hyper activity. They seemed to regain energy after the lunch of boerwors, chips, potato and bean salad, and Coca-cola. Our little ones from the playschool were loyal friends and sought each of us out throughout the day. They commanded us to help them jump, carry them on our shoulders, and swing them around in the air. The day was certainly a success if you measure it in smiles and laughs but we all left feeling a little bittersweet that these fun days are numbered.

Fall Break: Coffee Bay and the drive home

             We left for the airport to rent our car bright and early Saturday morning. Heather, Breanne and I met Taylor and Joey there and we drove in tandem with them on the way home. To split the 14 hour drive up, we stayed the night in Coffee Bay. The road wound and bumped it’s way down to the coast and we arrived at the two backpackers we were to stay at. The guys were at the Coffee Shack and we were at the Sugarloaf Backpackers. I must say ours was much cuter and we had a lovely little dinner. However, there was a large group of middle-aged people apparently having a reunion and definitely having a little too much to drink so Taylor and Joey came and got us and we went to the Coffee Shack for a drink and a pool game. It was a lively atmosphere and the drinks we ordered were really quite pretty. I must say it’s the first time I’ve had an audience while playing pool or ever been asked to help someone else on their team. It made for a fun night but we were quite happy to get back to our backpacker and get ready for bed. While brushing our teeth, the ever-present phenomenon of good conversation in the women’s bathroom presented itself. Three girls were there from various cities in South Africa and they were intent on discovering our thoughts on cultural differences and why on earth we chose Port Elizabeth over Cape Town to study (a very common question). After we finally said our goodnights, I called my Zach and went to bed tired and ready for more driving the next morning. The rest of the drive to PE afforded more of the absolutely gorgeous scenery we’ve been so spoiled with in South Africa. Once in PE we collapsed on our beds and prepared ourselves for the busy week ahead and hoped to schedule in some recuperation from the long adventures had over fall break.

Fall Break: Durban Day 3

Friday, 29th April

            The Victoria Street Market was the one mission we simply had to complete during our time in Durban. The market lies in the heart of a bustling center of informal commerce full of more colors, smells, and sights than ever. On our way to the market we spotted what we thought was the mosque we wanted to visit as well. After walking through the smelliest under-the-bridge market possible, we entered the gate to the mosque and quickly discovered that it was a Muslim cemetery. The women sitting along the wall beckoned us in and invited us to venture inside. They then gave us directions to the largest mosque in the southern hemisphere, which was our original aim. A man from the Islamic Propagation Center International gave us the tour as he was given special permission to speak with women inside the mosque. While I have not seen another mosque before, the Juma Masjid Mosque was a sight to behold. To be honest, I’m not sure I can describe it well enough. Let’s just call it a cultural experience that I will never forget. (I apologize for the vagueness).

            After our detour to the mosque, we made our way into the Victoria Street Market. Essentially it was the most jam packed building full of vendors (over 170) I’ve ever seen. The mix of African and Indian influences was fully intriguing (Durban has the largest population of Indian people outside of India herself). We explored the wonderful mix of the souvenirs we see everywhere and the souvenirs we’ve never seen. The smells of curry and coriander blended with incense to guide us along the rows of vendors. Once we had all visited nearly every stall, purchased a few souvenirs, and our senses had been overloaded, we made our way back to Florida Road. We had a light lunch at the vegetarian café and browsed around the charming shop. The rest of our day entailed a little rest and a little steak dinner and an early bedtime before our journey back to PE.

           

Fall Break: Durban Day 2

Thursday, 28th April

             The second day in Durban was lovely in all it’s simplicity. We returned to Florida Road and the African Art Center. The moment I stepped in the room, I wanted to take it all home. I planned to be generous and split it with my Grandmother but alas I don’t think my suitcase was large enough. I settled for getting both of us a Zulu wire basket but thoroughly enjoyed browsing through the explosion of colors. After we spent almost 2 hours in the African Art Center, we made our way to the new and improved accommodation, Surf ‘n Dreams. It was inviting, warm, clean, and safe! There was a locked gate and then a thumb scan entry into the house itself so compared to the lovely Banana, we were quite happy. We ran into a Tommy grad (St. Thomas in Minneapolis, for those who are unaware, are the largest (friendly) rivals of the illustrious Bennies and Johnnies of CSB/SJU) who was traveling the world. We settled into the place, feeling safe about leaving our things as one should in a backpacker, and made our way down to the famous beaches of Durban. The walk provided a great view of the pretty part of Durban. Once to the beach front we grabbed a bunny chow (1/4 loaf of bread hollowed out and filled with curry) and ice cream and browsed the vendors. On the way home, we decided to try the Kombis of Durban seeing as we are pros at the public taxis in PE now. We asked around and found our way onto the correct Kombi and were told where to get off and transfer. At the transfer location, we were greeted by students who seemed to be astounded that we had been riding a Kombi. They asked us questions and took a picture, as if to provide evidence that yes, they did see a bunch of white girls on a Kombi. Once we had shaken the gawkers, who were quite normal and friendly thankfully, we got on the next Kombi and were yet again gawked at and asked questions. The only problem came into play when we had to shift seats. We got off the Kombi at our stop and my heart plummeted to the sidewalk when I felt my empty pocket. My feet carried me faster than I knew possible, chasing after the Kombi whose backseat carried my camera. Alas, my short legs could not carry me as fast as a Kombi can drive and I became resigned to the fact that the camera was gone and someone else was very happy to have my Christmas present in their possession. Dinner and drinks on Florida Road that night were a nice consolation prize. I had a curry roti wrap, which astonished us all when it came out at least double the size of a Chipotle burrito. Needless to say, I did not finish the beast. We went to bed full and happy, albeit lacking a camera.

Fall Break: Durban Day 1

Wednesday, 27th April

            Summer through all seasons is an enticing phenomenon. As the weather in Port Elizabeth gets colder, eternal summer becomes even more inviting so we planned a trip to Durban. Ten girls left on Wednesday morning, and three other people left on Thursday to visit the warm city. Our trip started out a little tenuously as a few of the ten got back to the hotel from Long Street (the famous party street in Cape Town) a little too close to our 5 am departure for the airport. Everyone was back to a normal state by the time we landed in Durban and we made our way to Banana Backpackers, our accommodation for the few nights were there. We got a pretty unpleasant surprise that got much more so the more we saw of the backpacker. In the ground floor of the building that housed the backpacker, was a lovely establishment called ‘Sonya’s Massage and Escort’. No, I am not kidding you. The young lady in her bikini looked very nice but for some odd reason, I wasn’t the happiest camper with the location, which also boasted a slightly sketchy neighborhood. The cockroaches we found later didn’t help either.

            On the more positive side of our first day in Durban, we got to explore some great spots. We began the day at the Durban Botanic Gardens, a little piece of Eden in the middle of a dense city. We each took about a bajillion pictures (that’s the scientific term for the amount of pictures taken) and the browsing seemed nearly endless, especially for Taylor, who was still on crutches from her Table Mountain ankle incident. After we’d had our fill of flowers for the day we made our way to find some lunch. We went to Nando’s in The Workshop (chain restaurant in a shopping mall). Afterwards, we decided to walk our way to the BAT Center. We stumbled upon the Natural Science Museum and my dorky self was even more in heaven. I had forgotten how much I loved museums until we begin to explore the exhibits. The Insect Arcade was a favorite of Taylor’s and boasted a really cool diagram that lit up little dots on the human body where various insects make their homes.

            We eventually left the museum, to the slight reluctance of those who wished it were bigger and to the relief of the antsy ones. The walk to the BAT Centre gave us a look at urban Durban and not necessarily of the prettiest parts of Durban. We finally found it, thanks to our handy dandy tourist map. We had to walk into a tunnel structure that took you under the train tracks and it smelled of urine and certainly housed people at night. But the creepy tunnel was certainly worth it when we came upon the eclectic building. There was more character in the building than I have ever seen grace a single structure. It really didn’t seem like a building anymore, rather it was a constantly morphing work of art that housed wonderful sounds of jazz and art that tempted the browser to the extreme. Sadly only a few of the artist shops were open when we went so our next stop came too soon. The quick spar doesn’t seem quite exciting enough to write about but it allowed for the purchasing of breakfast food and became the last stop of the day until dinner.

            We went to a Mexican restaurant on Florida Road. The Mexican food was certainly the closest we have come to that breed of cuisine and the road was a nice return to a neighborhood where we felt safe. We sadly had to return to Banana Backpackers, at which point we found the cockroaches. We got ready for bed and I called Zach, who is thankfully still able to calm me down about cockroaches and creepiness from 9,000 miles away.  I laid down on the sheets, about which I had a few doubts, and used my beach towel as a blanket. Sleep came a little easier knowing we had reservations for the next two nights at a backpacker by Florida Road and we would be departing Banana’s lovely establishment, and leaving the vicinity of Sonya’s, in the morning.